All exterior doors that we receive from our manufactures are all built from Kiln Dried Timber stocks,choose whatever material.
External Dowel Doors are normally supplied 44mm
External Mortice & Tennon Doors are normally supplied 44mm thickness. All panels are silicone or mastic sealed to help against weather conditions,. protects the door.
Hardwood Door Pairs will normally be supplied 40mm and are dowel jointed. They are suitable for use internally or externally and all are ready rebated.
Pine Door Pairs will normally be supplied 35mm and are normally dowel jointed. These are suitable for interior use only and they are ready rebated.
**Treatment for Exteiorl Doors**
PLEASE NOTE:( All Exterior & Interior Doors Should Be Fully Treated Before Fitting The Door.)
As a reference, below is a guide of the widely published Sikkens finishing instructions which is for practical guidance only . The acclaimed Sikkens range, produced by global chemicals giant Akzo Nobel and widely available from retail stores throughout the UK and ROI, comprises microporous, clear and translucent woodstains and opaque paints, The key advantage of using Sikkens laquer products, is the finish will not peel, crack, deteriorate or suffer from premature erosion of the film if the decorative finish is correctly maintained.
For maximum protection, the door should be treated with a maximum of 4 coats of sealant as detailed on the tin re instrutions finishing process. In respect of Oak and Hardwood timber the first stage involves the use of Base Coat, which is completely applied to all surfaces of the door, to ensure maximum protection. Next: completely sealing the end grain of the wood at the top and bottom of the door stiles and at all joints with Sikkens special Kodrin products or & fINALLY, three coats of Sikkens Top Coat should be applied to all surfaces, which in respect of Oak doors is clear and in respect of Hardwood doors is translucent. Hardwood Doors can also be painted if a colour is preferred.
The final result, is a really fantastic, durable finish, which gives superior protection and enhances the door’s aesthetic appearance & should last for years.
Depending on your location and weather conditions, Oak doors will normally require re-coating every 12 months, whereas it is recommended re-coating Hardwood doors every two to five years, but it is also important to check the finish every six months, and re-touch if necessary , to properly maintain the decorative finish. Please note that the clear finishes offer comparatively less UV protection than Sikkens translucent woodstains or opaque paints, which contain more pigment and therefore afford better protection against UV. With this in mind the Oak doors require re-coating more regularly than Hardwood doors, in order to maintain the look of the protective finish, so if longer maintenance times are preferred, any colour from the Sikkens Filter range woukld be recommended. to use, the choice is yours to decide on the look of your entrance to your home. If looked after properly a wooden door will look after you and look superb for years to come & be enjoyed by all.
A porch or canopy offers extra protection from the elements and is normally recommended
There are numerous brands on the market & we fear many are formulated to achieve a low market price rather than quality. Be sure to select one to provide a lasting seal between component parts. Avoid the use of water based finishes, using only good quality solvent based finishes that have recognised sealing properties, ensuring that it is fit for purpose for the situation and conditions in which your door is to be fitted. Follow the manufacturer,s instructions carefully and we recommend keeping a copy of the claims made for the product in the event it fails to perform. It is vital al m finishing systems are appliedequally to both sides and edges at the same time. Rapid changes in ambient moisture are extremely detrimental especially when unbalanced. Danish oil is not suitable for use as a finish on any of our products. The application of a base coat stain or a paint primer alone is not deemed to form a seal.
All our range of wooden doors are of an engineered core with an oak or hardwood veneer face.
The Front Door range of doors are all supplied in their natural state ready to be varnished or painted and the pictures shown are not totally accurate in colour as wood always varies and some styles have been laquered. Oak in its natural state is a honey colour and hardwood is a meranti wood which is a lighter version of mahogany.
Our in-house team can pre-finish any exterior door with quality varnish finish
Q1. What is the U-Value of a specific external door?
To meet the thermal U value 1.8w m2k is required for new build properties
Q2. The label on the door states that I cannot use wax, teak oil or varnish…….why not?
When we manufacture a door it has a controlled moisture content, the above mentioned treatments will not seal the moisture content into the door, therefore allowing moisture ingress or loss to occur causing the door to either swell or shrink. Only a fully paint finish (primer, undercoat & gloss) or high performance wood stain/lacquer should be used.
Q4. The glazing bars on my doors are out of line, not square, what can I do?
The vertical glazing bars can be tapped back into line, these are dry set into the door and could move in transit.
Q6. Can you give out glass sizes?
We do not give out glass sizes for the reason that the measurements could be taken down or given incorrectly.
Q7. What if I receive an obscure glazed door and it has clear patches on the glass?
This effect is usually caused by a substance “filling in” the glass etching and turning it almost transparent, usually caused by silicone. It can be removed with white sprits and vigorous rubbing of the transparent patch. Once the white sprit as been applied, leave to dry and the glass should become obscured again.
Installing a door:
Doors should be fitted square,true & plumb & fixed in accordance with the manufactures instructions or the project specification. Three hinges should be fitted to all external doors. Mortice for locks must not be cut through joints in the door framing as this will impair performance of the rail joint.If any part of an external door is ciut or drilled remember to coat the newly exposed timber with suitable preservative.The door frame should be set well back or protected by canopy
Gossary of Terms:
APERTURE: An opening in a door where glass would be fitted
BEADING: The mouldings that surround a panel in a solid door, or a pane of glass in a door
CORE CONSTRUCTION: The internal composition of a door e.g. solid/hollow
FINISH: The surface of the door. Doors can be supplied finished, (usually with a clear laquer), or unfinished/natural (where you are able to supply your own finish)
FLAT PANEL: This is a panel on a door which is not raised, bevelled or profiled
FRAME: The timber components(e.g. linings & casing) that are fitted within a wall opening to which the door is fixed
FSC: The Forest Stewardship Council is an independant organisation that promotes the responsible management of forests worldwide . The FSC standard is recognised globally
HANDING: Predominantly referring to door pairs, it describes which door in the pair opens first e.g RHA (right hand away) or LHA (left hand away)
LIPPINGS: These create the door edge and can be reduced slightly in size to fit a specific door opening, without exposing the inner core of the door. Solid lippings ( as long as they are large enough ) allow the edges of doors to be modelled to form a rebated pair
MULLION: This is required when fitting an external door with a sidelight
PRIMED: Doors that have been prepared with an undercoat ready for a top coat finish
REBATING: This makes doors into a pair,by machining a groove into the edge s of two doors, creating a partial overlap where the doors meet.
SIDELIGHT: A panel which is usually fixed at the side of a hinged door. A sidelight is normally a narrow panel of glass set alongside a larger door
SOLID CORE: A heavy and solid centre to a door, it is normally made from wood-based timber components
STILE: This refers to the side of the door. Specific terms are hanging stile (hinge side) leading stile (side that opens into room) & meeting stile(door pairs)
VENEER: A thin slice of timber used as a decorative material on the visible face of the door